From Foum Zguid to the desert of Erg Chegaga
After traveling along the Draa Valley and through the rocky landscapes of southern Morocco, our road trip led us to one of the wildest gems of the Sahara: Erg Chegaga . For two days, we experienced total immersion in the desert, far from everything, staying at the Nomademoi bivouac , nestled at the foot of Chegaga's largest dune, which rises to 300 meters . A timeless experience, rich in emotion and simplicity.
An unforgettable journey to Erg Chegaga
In Foum Zguid , a 4x4 was waiting to take us onto the Saharan track leading to Chegaga. It runs alongside the old Paris-Dakar rally route. For several hours, we drove through increasingly barren landscapes: the dried-up Lake Iriki , stony plains, ochre sand, and total silence. We scanned the horizon for wild animals but only saw the nomads' camels.
Lake Iriki was dry when we passed through, but a few months earlier, it had been over 40 cm deep, something unheard of in 60 years. There had been a lot of rain, and the wells were full: a boon for the nomads and their animals.
Then the first dunes appeared, and we realized we were entering a slightly different world. The dunes of Erg Chegaga , much larger and wilder than those of Merzouga, stretch as far as the eye can see. The Nomademoi bivouac , with its comfortable Berber tents and intimate atmosphere, awaited us at the foot of the highest dune in the erg. We had chosen a superior tent and therefore had a shower and toilet in the bedroom: pure luxury! These four premium tents are barely 50 meters from the main bivouac. The main tents have shared showers and toilets.
Experiencing the desert: silence, sand and stars
For two days, we disconnected from the modern world. Limited cell service, no screens, no electrical outlets in the tents, but plenty of charging options in the restaurant, so don't worry! Just the wind in the dunes , songs around the campfire , and the soft desert light . Every meal prepared in the communal tent was a delight, simple yet delicious, featuring local vegetables and slow-cooked tagines.
After our first night in the desert, we walked to the camp of a nomadic family. Actually, they've been settled in the same spot for several years because there's a well nearby: they don't need to move to find water and will stay there as long as it's available. They offered us tea and, most importantly, dates to try, which we dipped in goat cheese they had made themselves. I must say, the combination was unusual but delicious.
In the evening, we rode camels to the foot of the highest dune in the desert and climbed the 300 meters at sunset: a memorable effort, but a beautiful reward awaited us: a 360° view of the erg , endless undulations of golden sand, and total silence. The setting sun painted the desert in shades of pink and copper as we savored the moment. A little moment of humor, though: when we were on camels, I asked the camel driver which way we should start climbing. The answer was surprising, and I burst out laughing: "Madam, you go straight ahead." Me: "But that's just a small dune (honestly, it was more like a sandcastle), I'm talking about the big dune, the one we came for." "Um, madam," he replied in broken French, "that little dune is enough for old and little ladies." I was so surprised by his answer that I burst out laughing and ran as fast as I could to the top of the largest dune in Morocco to make sure I enjoyed the sunset.
Nights in the desert are a spectacle in themselves. Lying on mats outside the tent, we gazed at a crystal-clear starry sky . The discreet and attentive staff at the bivouac made us feel right at home while sharing a glimpse of their nomadic culture.
We were totally captivated by this minimalist life: camel rides, drumming around the fire, playing in the sand at sunrise… We left with our heads full of memories.
Back to Foum Zguid and heading towards Tafraoute
On the last morning, we left the bivouac at dawn. The crossing of the desert at sunrise was silent and poignant. Upon reaching Foum Zguid , our car, and the paved road, a part of us wished we could have stayed longer.
But the adventure continued. After a short break, we headed towards Tafraoute , nestled in the Anti-Atlas Mountains. Between palm groves, granite formations and Berber villages, this new leg of our journey promised more wonders.
👉 In the final leg of our road trip, I'll take you to discover Tafraoute , its lunar landscapes, painted rocks, and mud-brick villages clinging to the mountainside. Another facet of Morocco, full of poetry and authenticity.
[…] 👉 In the next part, I'll take you with us for two timeless days in the heart of Erg Chegaga. Get ready for breathtaking landscapes, spectacular sunsets, and magnificent memories. Road trip part 3. […]