From Agadir to the Dades Gorges
Our road trip in southern Morocco was a wonderful surprise: it's a land of contrasts, from ancient kasbahs and verdant palm groves to desert regions and spectacular canyons. We covered over 1,800 km, quite easily. We were lucky with the weather, as I think the roads would have been much more difficult in the rain. We crossed numerous wadis (rivers), and in heavy rain, we wouldn't have been able to cross the fords. For the first two days, we drove the magnificent road from Agadir to the impressive Dadès Gorges, passing through Aït Ben Haddou, Ouarzazate, Skoura, and the Valley of Roses. Then we took the road to the Erg Chegaga desert, passing through the Draa Valley. Finally, we chose to end our journey in the Anti-Atlas Mountains, taking the road to Tafraoute via Tata. A journey punctuated by discoveries, emotions (even a few scares) and breathtaking landscapes, shared with my husband and our youngest (who is 15 years old, by the way)!
From Agadir to Aït Ben Haddou: first steps in the Anti-Atlas
We arrived at the airport relatively early and therefore left Agadir in the morning. We headed east, following the Anti-Atlas Mountains. This stretch of road offers a beautiful introduction to the majestic aridity of southern Morocco. As we continued, the villages became less frequent and the landscapes more barren.
We arrived in Aït Ben Haddou in the late afternoon, just in time to enjoy the beautiful golden light on this famous kasbah, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This ochre-colored ksar, whose buildings are constructed of rammed earth like most kasbahs in this region, seems suspended between sky and desert. We strolled through its narrow alleyways, encountered numerous sleepy cats, and glimpsed sets used in cult films like Gladiator and Game of Thrones . We spent the night in a small, unpretentious hotel in the new village, opposite the ksar. Our son was able to play football in front of the hotel with some Moroccan children; he was thrilled. A minor hiccup on our first day: the room had no window, but more importantly, we had a water outage for the night, so no shower and the toilet was unusable. Fortunately, the meal was delicious and the staff were lovely. I ordered a chicken tagine with preserved lemon, and my two men had a kefta tagine with eggs. For dessert, we had a fresh fruit salad. It's best to reserve meals in advance (before 5:00 PM, because as soon as I placed my order, I saw the receptionist's wife rush off to buy fruit and meat!).
The Valley of Roses: a scent of escape
The next day, we set off for the Dades Gorges, passing through the famous Valley of Roses . The second hiccup of the trip: we had a flat tire… We managed to drive to Ouarzazate and, more importantly, to find a tire repair shop on a Sunday. We had a screw in the tire: in less than 20 minutes and for only 20 dirhams (2 euros) and a friendly smile, the repair was done. I was dreading the 1500 km we still had to cover, but the plug held up on all the roads, often full of gravel. Phew!
The Valley of Roses is well known for its Damask rose cultivation. We were there during peak blooming season, but don't expect to see roses as far as the eye can see: they are often grown in small gardens, hidden from view from the road. We mostly encountered numerous vendors selling rose wreaths. But the rolling, verdant landscapes contrast beautifully with the ruggedness of the surrounding mountains.
We stopped in the village of Kelaa M'Gouna, at the entrance to the valley, to discover local rose-based products: essential oils, soaps, creams… A true delight for the senses! Then we continued along the beautiful road to Bou Tharar, where we turned back after stopping for a picnic by the water. There's a track that leads to the Dades Gorges, but lacking a 4x4 and, more importantly, having a tire in poor condition, we didn't dare attempt it.
Epic hike in the Dadès Gorges: “Monkey Fingers”
We arrived in Boulmane Dades around 3:30 PM and decided to take a walk in Monkey Fingers Canyon, named for its spectacular rock formations resembling giant footprints. We had passed by it on our way to our hotel, and the site looked magnificent. And above all, we needed to stretch our legs and thought we'd just walk a little along the river, admiring the beautiful scenery, as it was already late.
I'd stumbled across the blog of a young Belgian woman, Emma ( here ), who was talking about this hike and her unfortunate adventure, but I hadn't taken the time to read her post to the end. I should have regretted it. This hike, sometimes quite strenuous, immersed us in a stunning landscape: the colors of the rocks, from pink to bright red, changed with the light. We managed to find a bridge to cross the river and enter the canyon, so we continued walking. Our son, a thrill-seeker, loved climbing the walls and exploring the canyon. Then came the first difficulties: we had to crawl several meters under the rock to get to the other side, climb a wall, and cross the water and its pebbles. Not very complicated, but with a handbag and a camera, it wasn't quite as fun. The further we went, the harder it became. Until the canyon became increasingly narrow, to the point that even my son couldn't get through (there were maybe 25 centimeters between the two walls). We were poorly equipped and, above all, a bit lost. It was already 6:30 PM, and the only solution was to retrace our steps, but I admit I was dreading the descents. So we turned back, and luckily, right afterward, we came across a local guide with a group of young Polish people. The guide, Mohamed, was lovely and offered to take us with him, telling us that the exit was right there. I told him that wasn't possible, that there was no other way, but he seemed sure of himself. So we walked barely 50 meters, and he told us that we could find the path there. Um, where? There's no road, just the canyon, the walls, and a tree. Yes, there was a tree: we had to climb it and use its branches to get four meters higher up the slope and reach the plateau! We had to know about it and, above all, be brave! In short, the loop is impossible without a guide; we'll know that now. Mohamed was wonderful and accompanied us back, telling us fascinating anecdotes about the geology, the local plants, and life in his mountains. But he still neglected to mention the last difficulty of the return trip. I asked him why we weren't taking the bridge we'd crossed at the beginning. He told me it was too long to get back to the parking lot and that there was another way to cross the wadi. I trusted him completely… But when we arrived at the makeshift bridge, made of two tree trunks across the river, whose current was quite strong, we turned pale! Not so much for ourselves; at worst, we'd fall and get soaked, provided we didn't hurt ourselves on the pebbles. But especially for our bags, phones and cameras! Well, we made it through, we don't know how yet, but certainly thanks to Mohamed's sense of balance.
We made it back to our hotel safe and sound, with wonderful memories of our adventure, which we don't regret at all (well, yes, everything turned out well, so only the good memories remain). Our hotel, Riad Bleu Africa, was clean, the beds comfortable, and the view magnificent. I think it's a recommended hotel for motorcyclists, as there were quite a few of them staying at the riad. Dinner was hearty and delicious! We enjoyed a Moroccan salad, a chicken and vegetable tagine, and a fruit salad: local, simple, healthy, and gluten-free. For breakfast, there was a Berber omelet, Moroccan bread, and Moroccan pancakes, which my family loved, but I didn't get to try them.
An emotionally charged start to the journey
The first two days of our road trip in southern Morocco offered us a gradual and intense immersion in exceptional landscapes. Between culture, nature, and adventure, this leg of our journey was a true distillation of authentic Morocco.
👉 In the next part, I will tell you about our crossing of the Drâa valley, a stop before the desert : Road trip south Morocco, part 2.
These photos of southern Morocco are magnificent! I loved Aït Ben Haddou and the Dades Gorges during my trip to Morocco. But here I'm discovering the Valley of Roses, it's splendid. Thank you for this article, it's so refreshing.
Thank you for your comment, I'm delighted you enjoyed the article. Perhaps this is an opportunity to revisit it.