If you thought dumplings were only for wheat lovers, let Bhutan's Hoentay prove you wrong. Originating from the mysterious Haa Valley, these rustic little dumplings are a culinary rarity: their dough is made from buckwheat flour, making them naturally gluten-free and giving them a dark color and a slightly nutty flavor. Unlike classic Tibetan momos, Hoentay are made with chopped turnip greens (or spinach), local cheese, ginger, and walnuts. It's a dish that tells the story of high altitudes, where buckwheat reigns supreme and provides essential comfort. Dense, melt-in-your-mouth, and subtly spiced, they are traditionally enjoyed fried or steamed, always accompanied by a spicy sauce (ezay). A must-try for any food-loving traveler seeking a healthy, authentic, and completely wheat-free alternative.
Ingredients
For the dough
For the joke
Preparation
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The dough: Mix the buckwheat flour and salt. Gradually add the warm water and knead until you obtain a smooth but firm dough. Let it rest for 20 minutes under a damp cloth.
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The filling: Sauté the onion and ginger in butter (or oil). Add the turnip or spinach leaves and cook until wilted. Off the heat, mix in the cheese, walnuts, chili, and salt. The filling should be very flavorful.
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Shaping: Roll out the dough thinly on a floured work surface (rice or buckwheat flour). Cut out circles using a cookie cutter or a knife.
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Folding: Place a small spoonful of filling in the center. Fold in half to form a half-moon and pinch the edges firmly. In Bhutan, they are often shaped like slightly domed turnovers.
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Cooking: Steam for approximately 12 to 15 minutes. For an extra touch of indulgence, you can brown them in a pan with a little butter after steaming.
Note
Serve them with Ezay : a mixture of red chili, chopped onion, tomato and coriander with a drizzle of mustard oil.
