The children are growing up, and Christmas is the only time of year when everyone has their holidays at the same time. It was hard to get used to the idea of spending the holidays away from our loved ones and parents, but we still celebrated Christmas afterward. Our first idea was a road trip in South America, but we quickly abandoned that idea because in 9 days (including flights) we wouldn't have had time for anything. We also considered Sri Lanka and Kerala (South India), but, as we always decide at the last minute, there were no more flights. Finally, the Seychelles won out: it's a destination we wanted to visit; 9 days gave us plenty of time to explore a few islands; there's little jet lag; we found reasonably priced flights for Christmas, and there were still some accommodations available. The only drawback is the rainy season at that time of year. But the Seychelles aren't affected by cyclones, and generally, it only rains in the evening (well, that's what we were told). In the end, we only had one day of rain, but it rained non-stop from morning till night!
Our trip in a few words:
- 22/12 Arcachon-Barcelona by car (we picked up our youngest son who studies there)
- 22/12 Flight Barcelona-Mahé via Dubai by Emirates. Overnight flight, arrival the following day, early afternoon.
- December 23rd: Flight from Mahé to Praslin, on a small 19-seater Air Seychelles plane. It's a 20-minute flight, perfect for flying over the Seychelles islands. We arrived in Praslin at 3:20 PM.
- 26/12 Flight Praslin-Mahé, at 11:15
- 30/12 Flight Mahé-Barcelona, overnight via Dubai with Emirates. Arrival in the early morning.
- 31/12 Barcelona-Arcachon by car
Praslin – La Digue: Three Days Between Nature and Beaches
We began our trip on Praslin , an island known for its stunning beaches and the famous Vallée de Mai. After a 20-minute flight and picking up our rental car, we settled into the Lauriers Eco Hotel on Côte d'Or , a beach ideal for families with its calm, shallow waters and stingrays swimming close to our feet. The hotel isn't directly on the beach; there's a small road to cross, but it's truly lovely. The rooms are spacious, the pool very pleasant, and the meals delicious. We spent Christmas Eve there, enjoying a magnificent buffet. Thank you to Sybille and Edwin for their warm welcome! If you are gluten intolerant, they can provide gluten-free bread, and there are many other meal options available.
On the second day, we took the 15-minute ferry to La Digue for the day (30 euros return per adult). La Digue is a small, car-free island. Here, everything is done by bike or on foot, making it a perfect place to recharge.
Upon arrival, we rented bicycles and cycled leisurely to Anse Source d'Argent . You leave the bikes at the entrance; they're safe even without locks. The beach is famous for its giant granite boulders, a landscape unlike any other in the world. The water is shallow and very calm, perfect for children. We swam and took photos in this picture-postcard setting. Don't hesitate to come early in the morning to avoid the crowds (although Seychelles beaches are never crowded).
On the way back, we explored L'Union Estate , a former plantation. You can admire the giant tortoises up close. The park also offers an immersion into the island's history, with its colonial buildings and immense coconut palms. And for those in the know, you can also admire the house where the film Emanuelle was shot 😇.
Late in the morning, we stopped at Grand Anse , a wilder and more spectacular beach. Although swimming was discouraged due to the waves, the walk along the shore was pleasant. Then we crossed the center of La Digue (those less athletically inclined dismounted their bikes) to reach the North and East beaches: Anse Sévère, Anse Patate, and Anse Banane. We had a quick bite to eat at Anse Sévère and enjoyed a delicious fruit juice at Karim's Fruit Bar .
We took the ferry back to Praslin in the late afternoon.
On December 25th, we had planned to explore the Vallée de Mai , a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its enormous Coco de Mer , endemic to the Seychelles and therefore unique in the world. The fruit of this palm is called the coco de mer. Unfortunately, we weren't aware that the park is only closed one day a year… December 25th 🥲 Finally, thanks to Edwin, the charming hotel owner, we were able to rent a boat and set off to explore Curieuse Island Saint-Pierre Islet where we were lucky enough to spot a sea turtle.
Curieuse Island, once a leper colony, is now a sanctuary for giant tortoises. We loved walking among these majestic creatures, which move slowly in their natural habitat. Sea coconut palms also grow on the island's higher ground.
After visiting the turtles, we followed a hiking trail to a secluded beach to wait for the boat and enjoy a quick swim. Curieuse Island is a true immersion in nature, and it was a very pleasant day.
Back on Praslin, we had lunch at Café des Arts: the view was breathtaking, the lunch decent but a bit pricey (but it was our Christmas lunch). We still had a wonderful time. Then, we headed to Anse Georgette , often ranked among the most beautiful beaches in the world. The setting is magical: white sand, turquoise water, and enormous granite boulders. To get there, we had to ask permission the day before from the Constance Lemuria hotel (a superb hotel, by the way). All the beaches in the Seychelles are public, but to access this cove, you either have to go through the hotel, come by boat, or hike for an hour and a half from Anse Lazio .
Mahé: 4 days
Our last stop was Mahé , the largest of the Seychelles islands. With its magnificent beaches, mountains, and lively little towns, Mahé offers a wide variety of activities. We also rented a car to explore the island more easily. We rented two beach chalets: Anse Forbans Chalets , in the south of the island. The location is superb, the chalets very well-equipped, and above all, the place is very peaceful. However, it's best to have a car as it's a bit out of the way, which we appreciated. The hosts, a Seychellois family, gave us lots of advice, and most importantly, we were able to barbecue the fish we had bought.
Day 1: From Anse Intendance to Port Launay
The west coast of Mahé is wild and beautiful. We stopped at Anse Intendance, Anse Takamaka, Anse Soleil, Anse Saint Lazare, and then at Port Launay, where the road ends. We enjoyed some lovely snorkeling there. We especially loved the Del Place , where we stopped for lunch. Delicious local food, excellent service, a magical view, and ultimately, very good value for money.
Day 2: Sainte-Anne Marine Park
We rented a boat with a skipper through Arno ( Creole Charters ) to the Sainte-Anne Marine Park , an ideal spot for snorkeling. The water teems with tropical fish, but there's little coral: since the 2004 tsunami, the coral has been slowly regrowing. We stopped for a BBQ lunch on Île aux Cerfs: a delicious Seychellois meal, but far too touristy for my taste.
Day 3: A full day of rain
We had planned to hike in Morne Seychellois National Park . We'd been told the trails offered spectacular views of the lagoons and surrounding mountains. What a missed opportunity! Instead, we headed towards Victoria and Beau Vallon, which didn't particularly impress us. On the way back, we had lunch at Perry's Grill , in the hills above Anse Royale. It's a small restaurant located in a private home. They also offer delivery, perfect if you're staying in an Airbnb. Getting there is quite an adventure, but the food was excellent, especially the delicious papaya salad and the octopus curry (Zourite in Creole). We didn't order the lobster, but I regretted it after seeing it on the next table.
Day 4: Day at the Hilton Canopy
Since our flight was late in the evening, we planned to enjoy the day after checking out of the chalets: relaxation, swimming pool, beach, and naps were on the agenda. Many hotels offer day passes, but during this festive period, many refuse access. We were lucky enough to spend the day at the Canopy Hilton in Anse La Mouche. The hotel is new and located opposite a superb beach, especially at low tide. For 500 rupees per adult (about 30 euros), including 400 rupees of credit for lunch, we were able to enjoy the pool, the beach, and have lunch outdoors.
My opinion on the Seychelles
The Seychelles are made up of 115 islands, only 33 of which are inhabited. I imagine a catamaran cruise among the islands must be quite a sight. We loved Praslin and La Digue; the beaches and scenery are simply spectacular. We were a little less impressed by Mahé, although it's still very beautiful. The vegetation is lush everywhere, and the beaches are magical and deserted. Fish and rice are staples, along with vegetables and fruit, making it perfect for those with gluten intolerance. The Seychellois people are lovely, but be aware that everything is very expensive because the Seychelles' economy relies heavily on tourism.
Shopping
There are only a few large supermarkets (the biggest ones are between Eden Island and Victoria: Spar and STC). On Eden Island, where the Spar is located, you'll even find a shopping center with a mall. We did our shopping in small shops run by Indians: Enjoy Supermarket and Chop Shop, among others. In Anse Royale, you'll find many imported products at ISPC. I found frozen gluten-free bread at Chop Shop and many other gluten-free products at ISPC, including pasta. This small village also has a superb fish shop, Fresh Fish. And of course, there are the numerous fruit and vegetable markets and street vendors.
Some good addresses
Mahé
Praslin
The Dike
