From Agadir to the Dades gorges
Our road trip in the south of Morocco was an excellent surprise: it is a wonderful land of contrasts, between ancient Kasbahs, green palm groves, desert regions and spectacular canyons. We have traveled more than 1800 km, rather easily. But we were lucky in terms of time because I think the roads would have been more difficult in the event of rain. Indeed, we have crossed many wadis (rivers) and in the event of heavy rain, we could not have passed the radiers. The first two days, we traveled the magnificent road connecting Agadir to the impressive Gorges du Dadès, passing through Aït Ben Haddou, Ouarzazate, Skoura and the Roses Valley. Then we took the road to the desert of Erg Chegaga via the Draa Valley. Finally, we have chosen to finish our journey in the anti-Atlas by taking the road to Tafraoute, via Tata. A trip punctuated by discoveries, emotions (or even small scares) and breathtaking landscapes, shared with my husband and our youngest (15 years anyway)!
From Agadir to Aït Ben Haddou: First steps in the anti-Atlas
We arrived relatively early at the airport and therefore left Agadir in the morning. We took the road to the east, along the anti-Atlas mountains. This section of road offers a good introduction to the majestic aridity of the south of Morocco. As we advance, the villages were rare and the landscapes more mineral.
We reached Aït Ben Haddou at the end of the afternoon, just in time to enjoy a beautiful golden light on this famous Kasbah classified as World Heritage by Unesco. This ocher earth ksar, whose buildings are built in adobe like most kasbahs in this region, seems to be suspended between heaven and desert. We walked in its narrow alleys, we met many sleepy cats and seen the sets used for cult films like Gladiator or Game of Thrones . We spent the night in a small unpretentious hotel in the new village, facing the Ksar. Our son was able to play football in front of the hotel with little Moroccans, he was with angels. Small cover of our first day: the room did not have a window but above all we had a water cut for the night: so no shower and WC unusable. Fortunately, the meal was delicious and the staff lovely. I had taken a chicken tagine with candied lemon and my two men, a Kefta tagine with eggs. At the dessert, a fresh fruit salad. It is better to book the meals in advance (before 5:00 p.m. because as soon as the order is placed, I saw the receptionist's wife rushing to go buy fruit and meat!).
The Roses Valley: an escape scent
The next day, we take the road to the Dades gorges, including the famous Roses Valley . Second hoard of the trip: we have a deflated or punctured tire ... We manage to roll to Ouarzazate and especially to find, on Sunday, a tire repaire. We had a screw in the tire: in less than 20 minutes and for only 20 dirham (2 euros) and a beautiful smile, the repair was made. I apprehended the 1500 km that we had to travel but the wick held up on all the roads, often full of stones. Phew!
The Roses Valley is well known for its culture of Damascus rose. We were in full flowering season, but do not expect to see roses as far as the eye can see: they are often cultivated in small gardens, not visible from the road. We especially crossed many sellers of rose crowns. But the hilly and green landscapes contrast nicely with the harshness of the surrounding mountains.
We stopped in the village of Kelaa M'Gouna, at the entrance to the Valley, to discover local rose -based products: essential oils, soaps, creams ... A real pleasure for the senses! Then we continued on the superb road to Bou Tharar, where we turned around after stopped to picnic at the water's edge. There is a track which allows you to reach the Dades gorges, but not having 4*4 and especially a tire in small shape, we did not dare to try the adventure.
Epiced hike in the Dades gorges: “The monkey fingers”
We arrived in Boulmane Dades around 3:30 p.m. and decided to go for a walk in the canyon of “monkey fingers”, named due to the spectacular rock formations evoking giant imprints. We had passed by going to our hotel and the site seemed magnificent. And above all we needed to stretch our legs and just thought walking a little along the river, contemplating the magnificent landscapes because it was already late.
I came across the blog of a young Belgian woman, Emma ( here ) who was talking about this hike and her unfortunate adventure but I had not taken the time to read her article until the end. Very badly took me. This walking, sometimes sporty, plunged us into a superb decor: the colors of rocks, from pink to bright red, changed according to light. We were able to find a bridge to cross the river and enter the canyon and therefore continued to walk. Our son, amateur of thrills, loved to climb on the walls and explore the canyon. Then came the first difficulties: we had to crawl over several meters under the rock to be able to pass on the other side, climb a wall and cross the water and its pebbles. Not very complicated but with a handbag and a camera, it was less funny. The more we advanced, the more difficult it became. Until the canyon becomes more and more narrower to the point that my son himself could no longer pass (there were perhaps 25 centimeters between the two walls). We were little equipped and above all a little lost. It was already 18:30 and the only solution was to redo the path in the opposite direction but I admit that I apprehensive the descents. So we turned around and fortunately, immediately afterwards, we met a local guide with a group of Polish young people. The Mohamed guide was adorable and offered to follow him by telling us that the exit is right there. I told him that it was not possible, that there was no other way, but he looked sure of himself. So we walk barely 50 meters and he tells us that we get the path here. Uh, where ?? There is no road, just the canyon, the walls and a tree. Well yes, there was a tree: you had to climb it and use its branches to spend 4 meters higher on the wall and reach the tray !! You had to know it and above all dare! In short, the loop is unfeasible without a guide, we will now know it. Mohamed was adorable and told us and told us fascinating anecdotes on geology, local plants and life in its mountains. But he still failed to share with us the last difficulty in the return. I asked him why we did not take up the bridge that we had crossed at the beginning. He told me that it was too long to return to the parking lot and that there was another way to cross the wadi. I completely trusted him ... but arrived in front of the makeshift bridge, composed of two tree trunks across the river whose current was quite strong, we became livid !! Not so much for us, at worst we fell and we were soaking, if we are not injured on pebbles. But especially for our bags, phones and cameras! Well, we have passed, we haven't yet ourselves how, but certainly thanks to the sense of Mohamed's balance.
We were able to return entire to our hotel, with superb memories of our adventure, that we do not regret at all (well yes, it all ended well, so only the memories of good times). Our hotel, the Africa blue riad was clean, the beds comfortable, the view magnificent. I think it is a hotel recommended for bikers because they were in number in this riad. The dinner was generous and delicious! We were able to savor a Moroccan salad, a chicken tagine with vegetables and a fruit salad: local, simple, dietetic and gluten -free. At breakfast, a Berber omelet and Moroccan bread and Moroccan pancakes, who have delighted my men but whom I have not tasted.
A start to travel rich in emotions
These first two days of our road trip in the south of Morocco offered us a progressive and intense immersion in exceptional landscapes. Between culture, nature and adventure, this stage was a real concentrate of authentic Morocco.
👉 In the next part, I will tell you about our crossing of the Drâa Valley, step before the desert : Road Trip Sud Moroccan, Part 2.
