From Foum Zguid to the desert of Erg Chegaga
After having along the Drâa valley and crossed the rocky landscapes of the south of Morocco, our road trip led us to one of the wildest gems of the Sahara: Erg Chegaga . For two days, we experienced total immersion in the desert, far from everything, hosted in the nomademoi bivouac , nestled at the foot of the largest dune in Chegaga, culminating at 300 meters . An out of time experience, rich in emotions and simplicity.
An unforgettable crossing up to Erg Chegaga
In Foum Zguid , a 4 × 4 was waiting for us to take us on the Saharan track leading to Chegaga. She misses the old Paris-Dakar track. For several hours, we rolled through increasingly stripped landscapes: dried lake of Iriki , pebble plains, ocher sand and total silence. The horizon was scrutinized in search of wild animals but could only see nomadic dromedaries.
Lake Iriki was dried up when we passed but a few months ago, there have been more than 40 cm of water, unheard of in 60 years. It rained a lot and the wells are therefore filled: a boon for nomads and their animals.
Then the first dunes appeared, so we understood that we arrived in a slightly different world. The dunes of the Erg Chegaga , much larger and wild than those of Merzouga, extend as far as the eye can see. The nomademoi bivouac , with its comfortable Berber tents and its intimate atmosphere, awaited us at the foot of the highest dune in Erg. We chose a superior category tent and therefore shower and toilet in the room: Great luxury! Barely 50 meters separate these 4 premium tents from the main bivouac. The main tents have common showers and toilets.
Live the desert: silence, sand and stars
For two days, we disconnected from the modern world. Little network, no screen, no electrical outlet in the tents but what to load in the restaurant, don't worry! Just the wind in the dunes , the songs around the fire , and the soft light of the desert . Each meal prepared in the common tent was a treat, simple but tasty, based on local vegetables and simmered tajines.
After our first night in the desert, we went to the camp of a family of nomads. To tell the truth, they have been installed in the same place for several years because there is a well not far: they therefore do not need to move to find water and will remain there as long as it is the case. They gave us a tea and especially to taste dates that we had to dip in a goat cheese that they had themselves preparing. I must say that the mixture was strange but delicious.
In the evening, we went to the back of the dromedaries to the foot of the highest dune of the desert and climbed the 300 meters at sunset: a memorable effort, but a beautiful reward to the key: a 360 ° view of the erg , infinite ripples of golden sand, and total silence. The setting sun painted the desert of pink and copper nuances while we would enjoy this moment. A little moment of humor anyway: when we are dromedaries, I asked the camelier on which side we had to start climbing: the answer was surprising and I burst out laughing: "Madam, you, you are just opposite". Me: "But it's just a little dune (honestly it was rather a sand castle), I'm talking about the big dune, the one for which we came”. ”Heu Madame, he responds in approximate French: this little dune is sufficient for old and small ladies”; I was so surprised by his answer that I laughed and ran as quickly as possible at the top of Morocco's largest dune to be sure of savoring the sunset.
The nights in the desert are a spectacle in itself. Lying on carpets outside the tent, we observed a very pure starry sky . The staff of the bivouac, discreet and attentive, made us feel at home while sharing a piece of their nomadic culture.
We were totally won over by this minimalist life: dromedary stroll, tom-tam around the fire, games in the sand at sunrise ... We left with memories full.
Return to Foum Zguid and Cap on Tafraoute
The last morning, we left the bivouac at dawn. The crossing of the desert at sunrise was silent and poignant. By finding Foum Zguid , our car and the tarmac road, part of us would have been still well.
But the adventure continued. After a short break, we took the direction of Tafraoute , nestled in the anti-Atlas. Between palm groves, granite formations and Berber villages, this new stage promised other wonders.
👉 In the last part of our road trip, I take you to the discovery of Tafraoute , its lunar landscapes, its painted rocks and its hpbone villages with mountain flanks. Another facet of Morocco, full of poetry and authenticity.
